Wolfgang Maehr, Wolfgang Mähr, njyo

Ever since David (my flatmate) left for Europe in spring, his goal was to get himself a motorbike license, so he could get himself a Royal Enfield of his own. For one, to drive it around in Chandigarh and then as well in the hope that we’d get to drive up North to the heights of Ladakh – not comparable with what these guys did, but still quite an adventure: 350km without petrol pump, driving in a height range between 3500 and 5359 metres (Tang-lang La, the world’s second highest motorable pass) above sea level and a cold desert. It used to be a real pioneer’s track, now it’s more touristy, but still enough to push one out of one’s comfort zone.

A rather frenzied search for a Bullet for him, we finally managed to find a suitable model (Standard 350, 2003 model) to join the ranks with my dear Dhanno (Standard 350, 1996 model). Literally at the last moment this was, as we also needed to get David some driving experience (he had already tons of co-driving experience) on Indian roads. The planned date for the eventual Leh-Ladakh expedition was set to be the weekend of September 4th.

One week before that we found his conveyance and I directly got him some mountain driving practice with Morni hills and Kalka/Kasauli, both in the vincinity of Chandigarh. Then, with little time left, we also completed the rest of the preparation, got the bikes checked multiple times, bought tools , spare parts and supplies. Finally, we had to postpone the start from Friday to Saturday in order to be able to get proper sleep and the bikes checked once again properly by a trustworthy mechanic, that we finally found. Then, Saturday, Sept. 5 at 07:00 we started from Chandigarh.

The route we had planned from Chandigarh:

1. Manali (via Ropnagar, Bilaspur, Mandi, Kullu)
2. Darcha (via Rohtang, Keylong)
3. Pang (via Sarchu, Bara-lacha La)
4. Leh (via Tang-lang La, Upshi)
5. And then back via Srinangar, Jammu in 3 days

So far so good. The problem with this plan was – as we should find out in Leh – the return drive. I had checked the map and was aware that the drive back is quite a bit longer, but I forgot, that all the way to Jammu the road would be hilly at best, often still mountainous. Additionally it should not be possible to stay just wherever. So, as a result, we had to leave Leh pretty soon (we spent one day for fixing bikes and trying to find interesting souvenirs) so that we would also have some buffer time for the way back. Pity but also a reason to return with more time. ;)

So, the revised and recommended minimum track from Chandigarh:

1. Patni Top (via Ropnagar, Hoshiarpur, Pathankot, Jammu or even Ropnagar, Mandi, McLeod Ganj, Pathankot, Jammu)
2. Dras (via Srinagar)
3. Leh (via Kargil)
4. Resting day, fix the bike out of Leh on the road to Upshi
5. Pang – route incorrect (Upshi, Tang-lang La)
6. Darcha (via Bara-lacha La, Sarchu)
7. Manali (via Jispa, Keylong and Rohtang)
8. Chandigarh (via Kullu, Mandi, Bilaspur, Ropnagar)

Of course this is only a guidance. We had good and dry weather, that allowed us to advance in decent speed. The places listed as leg goals all seemed to provide decent housing and have suitable distances in between. Also, if you want to see Nubra Valley (with Khardung La, the world’s highest motorable pass) or Pangong Tso, you should reserve yourself two and one extra days respectively.

In terms of gear I also want to give a small overview of the most crucial items that we had to carry for later reference. One has to keep in mind that we had good weather (no rain except some drops) and temperatures were around 30?C during the day (in plains and mountains) and 0?C at night in the mountains. And of course it is assumed that the bike has been checked thoroughly before departure so it is problem-free.

Motorbike gear:

• side carriers: 2
• spare plastic petrol canister filled with 10l
• foot pump, one spare tube, tube valve and key, tyre irons
• 10, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 24 plus adjustable wrench for Bullet
• spark plug and wrench
• crew driver set
• pliers, hammer
• spare front, back and indicator bulb
• spare accelerator, break and clutch wires
• oil and rust dissolving spray
• chain lock and maybe spare chain
• screws and some steel wire
• ropes and bungee ropes (there can never be enough of those)

Clothing:

• sturdy, waterproof riding boots plus one pair of shoes for crossing creeks and other wet parts
• two pairs of trousers, ideally additionally one rain and waterproof one
• three raiding shirts (kurtas) with long sleeves, one waterproof jacket
• long, functional underwear, normal underwear, warm socks
• comfy but good (leather) gloves, bandana and face cloth – Buff’s are perfect, take warm and thin
• helmet, sun glasses, cap for when not wearing helmet
• shawl or decently warm cloth for additional warmth and comfort
• shorts and t-shirt for comfort

Other items:

• frisbee disk to play
• first aid kit
• camping cooker and some fuel, matches or lighter
• headlamp to flashlight
• sleeping bag (maybe)
• maps
• toothbrush, soap, two towels, deodorant, sun block, lip balm, moisturiser, etc.
• some food for when you do not come across any place for a long time
• any other camping gear: knife, compass, GPS, etc.
• camera
• cell phone (with BSNL, Airtel postpaid)
• waterproof plastic bags (also, cannot have enough of those
• spare water
• passport, driver’s license, bike keys, etc.

Depending on your packing, you should have a decently small luggage to carry, fitting well on the side carriers. Remember to pack everything in a water- and dust-proof way. Big potato bags were very useful for us in this regard to keep the smaller plastic bags together. Also, remember to dress in layers and have the commonly used things easily accessible. Amongst others that will be sun block, lip balm, jacket, snickers and maybe the rain gear. But anyways, during the trip you will figure this out.

So, that’s all for now, David has already put up his pictures and I will be nicking some from him and put them on Flickr soon. Hope you enjoyed this report and are now eager as well to ride to Leh, across the Alps, the Sahara, the Pampa or the Rocky Mountains. Either way, ride safe in harmony with nature and fellow traffic. Be nice and enjoy being in the world! And treat your bike well, just like you would your dear horse.